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From Fergana Valley to Karakalpakstan

10/18/2015

6 Comments

 
It was a long day of travel to Nukus, nearly traversing the country. We left Fergana at 7 am and were able to reach Tashkent by 12:00. Leaving the province required us to get out of the car and present our passports at an office at the roadside -- complete with soldiers holding rifles, one even wearing a menacing black face mask. Fergana in recent decades has been the region of some protests against the government, the most notable being in Andijon where the official response involved the massacre of many hundreds. (Official and private accounts vary.) Thus the strong presence in the mountain pass.

A little background: The protest focused on the poor economic conditions and lack of support for the farmers. Having never visited Fergana before, it's hard to assess progress but from what I have seen there and in Tashkent, Nukus and Khiva, there is marked evidence of economic development and increased prosperity from just 2 years ago.

After lunch in Tashkent we had planned to take a walk but it was pouring rain so we rested until we met up with our guide for the rest of the trip, Mirza. After a 3 hour plane ride (Russian propeller aircraft -- Illuyshin? -- and very casual reference to safety procedures, although we did get your standard airline cold cheese sandwich...) we arrived in Nukus in the chilly dark. Nukus is the provincial center of the autonomous region of Karalkalpakstan and home of the Savitsky museum. Mirza tells us that fewer than 5% of tourists visit the museum. No question it's not easy to get to but it is so worth the effort. If you Google Savitsky Collection you'll be able to get an idea. A new facility is almost ready to open that will allow more of the 5000 archived pieces to be shown.

After visiting the museum yesterday, we drove to Khiva (one of the UNESCO World Heritage sites on the Silk Road), stopping at Tepprakala and Ayuzkala desert forts, both originating from 1000-2000 BC. The ever present poplars growing along the canals were in full autumn splendor and a slightly overcast sky illuminated the subtle colors of the steppe. Arriving in Khiva at dusk was glorious: pink and golden skies contrasting the turquoise tiled minarets and warming the brown mud walls of the city and it's buildings. Once the sun goes down, it's very cold here but the rooms in our lovely small hotel have heaters and after some hot soup, I slept for 10 hours.

Today while Sue tours with Mirza, I'm meeting with vendors and staying close to the hotel since I have picked up a GI bug. As tourism grows here, a name -- like Monteczuma's Revenge -- for this affliction must be coined. Any suggestions?

It will probably be a couple of days before I write again (from Bukhara) but I'll try to post some pictures!
6 Comments
deborah young
10/18/2015 08:23:11 am

Your drive reminded me so much of descriptions BL & T came home with after trips to Afghanistan and remote posts elsewhere, bordering China and USSR. Lots of checkpoints and surly examination of documents. So glad you finally got to the Savitsky---after seeing the documentary, I thought it was such a magical art oasis in the middle of nowhere. I hope you feel better. XOXO

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deborah young
10/18/2015 08:37:49 am

Mother and father would talk about the the New Delhi Belly and the Calcutta Putta. Samarkand Samba? Gripastan? Sorry, nothing really inspired comes to mind. Will keep you posted

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Dana
10/18/2015 09:41:55 am

I knew I could count on you for help!

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deborah young
10/18/2015 08:07:16 pm

I'm your go-to Gal Friday for all things GI

deborah young
10/19/2015 07:53:10 am

Putin's Revenge. Still angry about losing Stans. BTW Susie could be poisoning you in order to abscond with your textiles. She probably has some Sister Cities Secret Sauce that is protecting her. Or my Sestra bracelet. Watch your back. Hope a slightly quieter day has helped you and you are back on track. Can you imagine how awful this would be if you were leading a tour?!?!

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Robin link
10/22/2015 11:11:02 pm

Enjoying following you on your adventure.

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    Dana, estrogen-deprived and textile-hungry, ventured from the Pacific Northwest to Central Asia in 2013.  Now the lure of bandhani & woodblock take her India.

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